Discovering unexpected sides of Hamburg

Less than 6 months distance since my previous trip, I am back to Hamburg. I don’t expect to see the sun here – never happened before, but was told that there might be some shining hours here from time to time  – but at least I’m lucky enough to not be touched by any drop of rain. I am ready for some important meetings later in the afternoon, but still enough time for catching up with places I haven’t seen before. First on the list, the Museum of Arts and Crafts, situated very close to the train and bus stations. It was designed at the end of the 19th century by Carl J. Chr. Zimmermann. It integrates brilliantly as parts of the inner courtyard the 17th century  Renaissance building of the former hotel Kaiserhof.

From a very challenging exhibition about Insights into fashion, where old dresses are reshaped while simulating various effects and optical illusions, to posters by Andy Warhol – whose successes were often associated to Germany – I have plenty of opportunities to view new things.

Making a selection is hard, but my time is relatively limited. I am set for the collection of Renaissance and Near East sculptures, the fine collection of travel instruments and another one of musical instruments.

The porcelain collection is also worth seeing, bringing more insights into the evolution of table manners and the European civilization as such.

The museum also hosts the famous Der Spiegel Canteen, one of the best preserved pop design work by the famous Danish designer Verner Panton.

My Berlin friends originally from Hamburg are often going back home for the weekend, especially for attending various cultural events. I am on the way to check why they are so proud of their local cultural heritage. At the Bieber Haus is situated the very popular Ohnsorg Theater.

A couple of minutes away, there is the more classical Deutsche Schauspielhaus.

The predominant colour of the buildings is the brown reddish of the typical trade houses, but while observing the architecture on Kirchenallee, Large Reihe or Holzdamm, I notice more white, some with some small golden touch that brings a lot of elegance and distinction to the ensemble. On Koppel 66, the House of Art and Crafts offers to the artists permanent exhibition space and workshops.

A beautiful maritime view on An der Alster makes me forget about bad weather or the difficulties of properly understanding the local architecture. A quiet corner with lazy goose and boats waiting to be used in the near weekend is an example of what I found there.

The schedule is calling – almost screaming – and I am trying to save time by using the metro. As in the case of Munich, the trains look like pieces of museums from the 1970s. But they work fine and I arrive in time for my meeting. A meeting – my main reason for visiting Hamburg – that, surprise, is cancelled; but looking on the full half of my glass, I see more walking and travel writing inspiration in the next hours, so I move forward.

Soccer creates huge passions in Germany, as each region and big town has its own representative team to die for. Hamburg has St. Pauli, with a huge stadium surrounded by massive street-art. As there is no match taking place, the area looks good, even funny, but I would not like to be around in the middle of a serious sport confrontation.

The downside of the winter/late autumn travel in Germany is that the parks and botanical gardens are looking pitiful: empty, naked, sad. In the spring, Planten un Blomen – in the local dialect, ‘Plants and Flowers’ – is blooming and the beauty of the nature makes me forget the annoyance that sometimes things are not always going according to the schedule. At the view of the fountains in the middle of the manicured lawns and the colourful roses I feel much better.

When I was heading to ‘Planten un Blomen’, I felt a bit irritated seeing a huge stone head sprung from behind the big green trees. I was familiar with the monumental architecture predominant in this part of the city from the previous trip, but this time, it was something much bigger. I hurry up to see what is all about, and I am face to face – metaphorically speaking – with Mr. Bismarck, represented as a gigantesque Roland. Roland was the hero of the historical battle of Roncevaux. His presence in many German and European towns – the oldest representation was in Bremen, back in 1404 is a symbol of freedom and independence. The local legends predict that as long as Roland is guarding over a city, the freedom is guaranteed. Hamburg is another proud independent city but looking for more guardian heroes. The representation of Bismarck was created by the architect Emil Schandt at the request of the local authorities and the works lasted between 1903-1906. According to the metaphorical representation of the statuesque group, Hamburg  is portrayed as one of the ‘doors to the world’. For my modern and minimalist perspective on history, the entire ensemble is overwhelming and after I make the round, I am happy to be back in a little park with buildings of normal dimensions.

Near Gansemarkt, I find a cute refuel of energy: Waku Waku bio eatery, with a design furniture inviting to collaboration and dialogue, and many delicious veggie treats. I take my coffee, trying to distinguish the recipe of the spiced smells that fills the space.

Hamburg has a chic side that I noticed till now only by observing the street fashion. After wandering the commercial galleries, I know that the local people have a lot of temptations to purchase their unique designed clothes. Hamburg has its own brands and trends. For instance, Budnikowski – or Budni – drugstore, an alternative to the popular Rossmann on the market from the beginning of the 20th century, that in addition to the classical goodies, distributes many natural soaps and makeup. At the Galerie Kaufmannshaus, I fell in love with the fashion designers from the Concept Store, especially Sahra Tehrani and Negassi.

I got lost in the maze of the Stories! bookstore, offering special discounts for English books every Friday, felt inspired by the fine jewellery from Anamundi and had a big laugh when I see the media-inspired menu from Broscheks Restaurant – Green Column, North German Editorial, Editor-in-Chief’s fish dishes are only the funniest examples. Life is a funny story, depends how much courage you have to keep your sense of humour whatever the circumstances.

The shopping galleries with their busy people and temptations are exhausting, and I return in the central area of the old city – Altstadt , resting near some elegant swans busy making their toilette.

Crowded with tourists during the weekends, the square near the historical townhall is now empty, allowing me to have one more look at the imposing building.

The last stop of the day is the glamorous Art Nouveau Paris Coffee on Rathausstrasse, which looks and sounds French – train your voice to speak a bit louder as usually because the tables are dangeroulsy close to one another and the big hall of voices makes communication a bit difficult – , but with some thematic paintings on the ceilings inspired by the Hamburg trade imaginary. A tea and mouth-watering macaroons are the perfect companions for my meeting with a beloved friend I haven’t seen in five years. As I promise to my friend that the next meeting will not be in 5-year time, I make a wish that we’ll agree to meet again in Hamburg.

For more pictures from Hamburg, including from previous trips, have a look at my dedicated Pinterest board: http://www.pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/hamburg/

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The rainy return to Hamburg

 

I visited Hamburg a couple of years ago, at the beginning of my expat life in Germany, when I was pretty curious for everything. I returned the last week of December to revisit some places and eventually discover new ones. It was raining again, but I wasn’t bothered. The memories were still fresh and I didn’t need too much orientation to find my way without a map around the old places that I visited the first time. The difference was that this time I was expecting the monumental apparitions from the edges of dark-bricked buildings and the omnipresence of the water. And I knew I am not in Venice. 

 

 

Hamburg was and still is a very rich city, compared to the poor capital city, with a high volume of trade exchanges. Most of the old buildings, stylish but still serious and inspiring people to work were built for the needs of the shipping industry and the economy developing on its expenses. The penchant for arts and individual outlook of the buildings evolved as the need of the successful businessmen to personalize and outline their success increased too. Usually included in the category of ‘Brick Expressionism’, these buildings may look brutal at the first sight and an intrusion into the private space of the quiet walker. After a couple of walks, one may get used with unexpected apparitions of naked bodies hanging in the most surprising corners. A strong body may send a strong message of power. 

In the area around the main train station, there are also many cultural attractions. Out of time, we chose only House of Photography where a retrospective photo exhibition of beautiful fashion art by Guy Bourdin.

 

 

Close to the Deichtorhalle area, one of Europe’s biggest art centers for contemporary art, the media giant Der Spiegel offers an architectural showcase of power given by information. On the other side of the street, there are the ZDF headquarters. Bild and Die Zeit, as well as many regional newspapers – more powerful than the national ones, following the federal political and administrative structure of the country – are keen to trade information bites with the same fervour of the businessmen fighting for a better price for their symbolic merchandises. 

 

 

We refused ourselves the temptation to take a air balloon tour over Hamburg, that can be booked around the same Deichtorhallen area. We went far away from the Central Station area, trying to be as invisible as possible from the sights of the unpredictable punks waking up. Most of the shops were closed, but we dared to make some tours in the main yards, invited by the spectacular apparitions. Levantehaus was our favourite, with stone spectacular animal heads around delicate sources of lights. 

 

 

I love to visit old townhalls in Germany, but the one in Hamburg is my favourite. Besides the usual administrative businesses, it also hosts the regional government. Its construction lasted around 44 years after the destruction of the previous one by a fire. Such a long work resulted in a brilliant piece of architecture, with a hall richly decorated and elegant stairs. Queen Elizabeth II and the Shah of Iran visited it in the 1960s. Guided tours in French, English and German are offered regularly, including on Sundays. In the close vicinity, the Chamber of Commerce and the Hamburg Exchange, reconstructed after the war – when most of the city was destroyed – with the money of the local business community are another symbols of local power. 

 

 

After a short stop at the exhibition at Bucerius Center, dedicated to Dionysos and the Greek beauty, we took the Poststrasse and explore the Hansaviertel and its Jugendstil buildings. Somewhere around, Mr. Hertz who researches the electromagnetic fields was born. The Neuestrasse and the whole area around Marriott has small luxury and antique shops, with beautiful silverware exposed in the windows. 

 

 

From Valentinskampf we arrived at the new area of Johannes Brahms Square, close to a museum dedicated to the composer’s life. The huge building was at the beginning of the century hosting a conservative workers’ union hence the preference for naturalist representations. Statues of naked men are placed on one side of the building, unexpected apparitions in the world of serious work. In the park, a complex of classical statues are part of a memorial in the memory of Kaiser Wilhelm I, from the House of Hohenzollern, the first German emperor who united the German states for the first time, in 1883. 

 

 

Despite the cold weather and the regular batches of rain, we are ready to walk a lot. Even though buses and metro are available, we have enough strength to move forward as this is the best way to discover a city that you cannot have too much time to see otherwise. From the Brahms square, we pass along the serious buildings of the civil courts heading direction Karolinenviertel, an alternative area for young green people and families. Once arrived there, not only the shops look different – more vintage and local anti-fashion styles – but also the style of the restaurants – vegan, Indian, Nepalese or Tibetan style. After more bio shops and even more graffiti, we return slowly to the central area. On the way back, we spotted the big stadium, where the matches of the local soccer teams are watched by the passionate supporters. Luckily, nothing is announced for our Sunday and we aren’t bothered by the usual commotion on such occasions.

 

 

When is time to eat, I don’t hesitate twice and I say where I want to go. It is the same place where I’ve been before: Saliba restaurant. At the time, I ate outside, but it is cold enough to don’t offer myself the pleasure of a meal with a view over the water. The smells and sounds of the Middle East didn’t change since then, and the service is fast enough to answer our hunger. We only had a small chai latte, my newest passion, at Mélange, a couple of blocks away, too busy and without a serious food offer for our tastes. At Salba, I had a delicious rice with dates, cashews and pomegranates, plus other veggies. A delicious combination, that I will remember for a long time. The rice was maybe a bit too fried, but overall fine. The different spices and ingredients bring their own taste and create a great balance. And of course they do have the delicious cardamom perfumed coffee that cannot be tasted anywhere else but in the Middle East. 

 

 

I couldn’t leave Hamburg before going to the port. In the evening, the maze of bridges over the water connecting different histories and architectural styles isn’t as visible as in the middle of the day. I have memories of the beautiful modern architecture of the quarter near the port. HafenCity is built on water and projected to resist any weather intemperances – the floods were and still are the main problem for the city infrastructure. Nearby, a small musical box museum announces the coming performances of the Elbe Philharmonic who’s under construction for a couple of years already. More than in Berlin, middle class people of Hamburg love to go to concerts and exhibitions and to enjoy the good life. Nothing wrong with it, and while moving slowly around boats and couples doing their evening walks I am thinking that many ‘water cities’, like Amsterdam or even Venice, have a special charm that will always call me back.

After a last chai latte at the Campus Suite and a new 30-minute walk, I am ready to promise that soon will be back to Hamburg. I bet I will do almost the same things I already did during my last 2 visits. Some things don’t have to change at all. 

 

For more pictures from Hamburg, visit my Pinterest board: http://www.pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/hamburg/