Bookish recommendations of the month

Today, I decided to take a break from travel and focus on what on my favourite activities when on the way to my next destination: reading.

Rose – or the House I Loved according to the English edition – by Tatiane de Rosnay is a delicate novel about the beginning of the era of dramatic transformation of the urban structure of Paris. Rose Bazelet’s resistance against the plans to demolish the house on rue Childebert involves more than social resistance, taking the shape of a complex remembrance process and coming at terms with the past. The story is emotional, well written and with many historical details about the beautiful city of Paris. I’ve read the French version which is very beautiful.

A couple of centuries later, a Frenchman says Bonjour, Berlin! This story involves some short coming at terms with the past too, but it is mostly about a past with many drugs and other adventures. And Friedrichshain’s Berlin is actually the last place on earth to start a new beginning. Note to self, to find some time to catch up with this part of Berlin one of these days.

Here comes one of my favourite books I’ve read in a long time: The Golem and the Jinni, by Helene Wecker. The love story between the Golem Chava and the Jinni Ahmad is a great writing, with a surprising development of the story within stories between a woman made of clay in a shtetl in Easter Europe, and a man of fire arriving from Syria in a vase. Although the context is based on old Jewish and Arabic legends, the author is creating admirably a new story that does not have anything stereotypical or academic that might diminish the literary quality. 

On the other hand, Zadie Smith’s On Beauty was a disappointment, after my big enthusiasm a couple of years ago after reading the White Teeth. An ironic novel about political correctness and families in the academia, it is using perhaps too much creative writing tips instead of writing simple good stories. 

My non-literary suggestion, but connected with writing though, is about How to create Non-fiction book ideas that sell, by James R. Thomson. It focuses a lot on intensive research and on pre-marketing and how to have the mindset of the non-fiction writer. The most useful tips: ‘When someone is buying a book, they really don’t care about you. They are buying the book with the hope and expectation that it will improve their life either in the short or long term’. 

On the way to Hamburg, I finished yesterday The Thousand Autumns of Jacob de Zoet, by David Mitchell. Although I love the topic, dealing with foreign presence in Japan and the influence of Enlightenment on the mentalities and institutions of the secluded Empire. A Dutch-book keeper Jacob de Zoet is sent to Japan as a resilience test before eventually getting married with a rich girl, but sooner he will be involved in the cultural and social adjustment to the daily life as a foreigner, including falling in an impossible love with a Japanese woman. Although I loved the story and many of the historical references, I’ve found the writing a bit unappealing. I thought that maybe there was because the author tried to use an old language in line with the spirit of those times, but even so, I did not find the idea very inspiring.  

For the next weeks, I have some secret reading plan, involving some special travel books, that I hope to keep up with while on the road.

Happy reading everyone!

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Horse racing in Hoppegarten

The horse racing season in Hoppegarten is open and not even the cold rain can stop me to keep up watching this special competition. We take the S-Bahn train from the Zoo and less than one hour after, we are at the 19th century train station. As the place is well-known for the horse rearing, the station went through various transformations in order to not disturb the transportation of racing horses.

Two more batches of rain after, we are taking our place in the lodges area, trying to figure out what is going on. A big screen is transmitting news about the competition and interviews with the sponsors. The first race took place in 1868, in the presence of King Wilhelm of Prussia and his faithful Otto von Bismarck. During the GDR times, the races were famous in the entire former Eastern block, with the last GDR derby taking place in June 1990. Nowadays, it is completely private, being the only racecourse in Europe where the state does not have any involvement.

Suddenly, my journalistic focus is diverted though at the sight of beautiful hats adorning the heads of respectable horse bettors.

Going out in the yard to check the latest events, I discover a small shop selling precious hats, but I did not find anything to match my outfit, so better wait till the next horse racing.

We arrived in between races. Right now, the betting is open, the horses being introduced to the public. The trainers are walking the beautiful Arabian horses, some of them trained either in Hannover or in the Netherlands. The betting starts from 0.5 Euro and can go far beyond 500 Euro. Small kiosks in the yard are open to take the bets and not few are those who are playing their luck.

After around 40 minutes of observing the horses and hearing their qualities, we are back in the lodge, watching the race. We watch how they are approaching from the other end of the track on the screen, and see them coming closer and closer. Maximum emotion: children are screaming and adults are keeping their breath, thinking perhaps at their gain. Here is a short video I made during the race, catching the mounting emotions and the fast forward movement of the horses. 

Although I didn’t bet, I feel a bit emotionally drained after the couple of minutes of the race experience, and I indulge in a cake with a coffee. For the winners and not only, a luxury champagne corner is inviting for a special treat. Otherwise, there are famous ‘wursts’, various grills and ‘bretzel’, cotton candy and, of course beer. 

A new round is in the making and we are invited to see the new competitors. The last one was pretty good for some of our colleagues in the lodge whose screams of joy while hearing the final results almost push us to try our luck. Maybe a next time, when I do better my homework, getting to know the horses and their performances. With 20 racing days the year, I might have plenty of time to know more about the rules and insights of the horse racing.

As for now, when I look around at the beautiful horses elegantly walking I could hardly make a choice. All of them look noble, intelligent and very strong and well cared.

Hoppegarten has its regular fans and supporters too.

When I am walking further in the yard, I am happy to notice a special corner where the children are learning to ride ponies. For the smaller ones, there is also a big playground.

When it is time to leave, the bush trimmed in the shape of a jockey on his horse give as a wink, reminding us that whatever decision we will take about betting or not we should come back soon anyway.

We cannot leave before making a short tour of Hoppegarten, that we could not properly admire before due of the rain. Some old houses look interesting and the streets are very quiet.

On the side of the main road, signs are warning about the occurrence of meeting often horses. The nature is lovely and looking very fresh after the rain, inviting to a hike.

But most probably, what will bring me back to Hoppegarten soon are the beautiful horses, that are always teaching a lesson of loyalty and elegance. I promise that the next time will absolutely wear a hat too.

For more pictures from the horse racing in Hoppegarten, have a look at the dedicated Pinterest board: http://www.pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/horse-racing-at-hoppegarten/

The next dates for the horse racing can be seen here.

Wolfsburg, more than a simple Auto city

A couple of years ago, I spent one full year in the Toyota City which is, you guessed correctly, where the famous Japanese Toyota cars are manufactured. After commuting by car to Nagoya, I was back to my small hotel room home ready to go back again, as I did not have too much entertainment – if any – in my special city. With those memories in mind, I avoided for a long time to visit Wolfsburg, a city largely built around the Volkswagen car factory. But after a bit of research, I instantly decided that I should go. as there must be some hidden gems waiting for me.

First encounter: the art project at the train station, developed by conceptual French artist Daniel Buren, part of a larger trend among the train station designers in Germany, to bring the beauty in the middle of the busy transportation centers.

The next surprise, the massive presence of Phaeno Science Museum, designed by the world architect Zada Hadid, an unique architectural and scientific project and one of the most important of this kind in Germany.

The architecture surprised me, but even more surprising is the interactive exhibition itself, which explains almost everything about nature and science, in a very simple and dynamic way. Even the most complicated physical theories and concepts, as well as natural phenomenon – do you really want to feel a tornado? – are clarified to the simplest non-scientific brains. No wonder that classes of children are visiting the museum regularly part of their daily learning curricula. I only have a huge regret that my scientific education stop at a certain moment in life, as I felt overwhelmed by theories and equations, without a direct feeling of the natural laws. More details can be found on my YouTube works here and here and here.

I leave with huge sighs Phaeno, but the colourful presences on Porschestrasse help me to diminish my sadness for the lost wasted school years.

Those interested in astronomy can continue the experience at the Planetarium.

As the Planetarium was closed at the time of the visit, I used my time trying to understand the hidden messages of the massive art works spread within the park around.

I was luckier with the Modern Art Museum, where I visited a retrospective exhibition of Oskar Kokoschka, whose special (self)portraits and representations of reality send more than a simple artistic message, but a whole life philosophy.

Under the strong impression of the colours and new impressions, I retired in the small secluded Japanese garden, smelling the silence and thinking about art.

On the way to the famous Autostadt, a city within the city created around the VW  factory, I stop at the Outlet center, a bit middle level compared to other similar experiences in Europe and Germany in terms of the brands represented, but with serious discounts that for sure will convince to bring something back home. I still think why I haven’t been more sure about that Creuset then? The area was not very busy, maybe because it was the middle of the week.

I passed the bridge near Phaeno and I am at the Autostadt. After purchasing a daily card of you plan to go in and out several times, or a simple one-way ticket, you enter in the world of high car technology. Even though you might not understand too much about cars – like humble me – a big car made of chocolate at a sophisticated exhibition about green technologies nowadays might take your blues away.

What I found unique about Autostadt, is the balance between the eclectic and sometimes very courageous architecture and the green scenery, with many parks with beautiful flowers, as well as gardens or artificial islands embellishing the spectacular steel and concrete apparitions.

One of the most spectacular presences by far, in terms of high precision is the huge tower where the cars ordered by customers are waiting in line till an entire mechanism is put into motion and bring them on the way to their new masters when needed. True is that when I saw the robots at work at Toyota factories I kept silent for a couple of good minutes, but it seems that in the Autostadt the ‘wow’ effect is multiplied. Welcome to the SF world of the world car industry!

One of the counter-recommendations about visiting Wolfsburg that I received when I shared my enthusiasm for this new destination, was that it is in fact a city without history or high class elitist attractions, made out of nothing. Remains of the former Roman road that is going through the area are kept well preserved and notice their presence to the visitor though.

A quarter of hour from the Autostadt by foot, there is the local palace, built during the Middle Ages and rebuilt as a Renaissance construction later on. For the moment, it is going through massive reconstruction and cannot fully visited, but the landscape invited me to spend more time around.

The area around the castle was used for an open air exhibition, with interesting pieces of art, that did not discourage the goose families to enjoy the good weather too. In an improvised tent nearby, art students were trying their skills of panting with graffiti on canvas.

The first hours of visual and walking experiences in Wolfsburg were overwhelming at a certain extent, but the pleasant tour of the elegant The Ritz-Carlton and their delicious afternoon tea brought me back on the track.

More explorations on the list: the spectacular Porsche building, whose shape is inspired by the usual elegant design of the car produced by the luxury company. On one of the walls, the revelation of the design choice of the cars: ‘In the beginning, I looked around but couldn’t find the car I dreamed of. So I decided to built it myself’. This is how any serious successful startup experience starts nowadays, isn’t it?

The weather is so beautiful that I enjoy being outdoors as much as possible. The gardens of Autostadt are encouraging me to do so.

When I have too much of walking, I have the extravagant choice to rest on the top of the hill on a huge comfy chair and a perfect perspective.

The adrenaline was brought back to the normal levels after visiting the Car Museum, near The Ritz-Carlton: a spectacular, but too noisy for my taste installation – especially the amplified sound of the scratches of the Lamborghini cars moving at fast speed – , with effects is aimed probably to impress you that much that after the show is over, you could seriously count all your money to plan your next serious investment.

Autostadt also has an impressive gourmet choice. The top is the multi-awarded Aqua restaurant from The Ritz-Carlton, one of the top two German restaurants recognized internationally for the fine cuisine. At a different level, there is the Chardonnay, where the fresh, healthy and innovative menu is prepared by chef Daniel Kluge and its team.

One of the newest design sensation in the little town is Das Brot, a small cozy restaurant who is both a bread manufactory and bakery. The 20,000 tiles produced in a 19th century workshop from Munich traces the path of the grain, from the field to the shop counter. A big table in the middle of the room invites the guests to share not only their impressions about the healthy food prepared, but also their space and maybe common stories too. Das Brot supplies bread and baked goods to all the restaurants in the themed park. I order a coffee and spend the rest of my time in the Autostadt outside, having a look over the groups of tourists enjoying the guided tours or taking a boat tour.

Back in town, on the same Porsche street, a group of locals are focused on the next chess move.

Near the famous cultural center designed by the equally world known Finnish architect Alvar Aalto, I have a look at the small bar that bears the signature of the same architectural genius. Closed for the public at the time of my visit, I was lucky enough to be let to have a look inside getting to know the unusual ambiance projected by the artist. Everything looks simple and bourgeois, till you notice the elegant pastel-coloured Vespas in the window.

This is how I probably imagined Wolfsburg myself: a bit boring and highly industrial, till I spent some good hours touching science and smelling technology and my perspective changed dramatically. Another useful travel lesson.

For more visual insights from Wolfsburg, have a look at the dedicated Pinterest board: http://www.pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/wolfsburg/

Afternoon tea chez The Ritz-Carlton Wolfsburg

After long hours of walking and many interesting discoveries in the city of Wolfsburg, I made my one and only long stop of the day at The Ritz-Carlton for afternoon tea followed by an extensive tour of the newly redesigned hotel. I tasted the afternoon tea in the lobby, close to the window with a view over the swimming pool, the historical Kraftwerk and the man-made created small green islands in the middle of the water. An interesting view.

I was left in the care of Dominik, who brought me everything at a very acceptable human pace. I started with a glass of delicate champagne. My non-alcoholic apple champagne was very delicious, tasty and exactly as cold as it should be for keeping the proper bubbling taste. The background music and the inside ambiance, plus the relaxing view, contributed to the creation of a feeling of peace.

The smoked Sencha tea followed next. Kept warm and poured in the cup exactly at the right time when the previous cup was almost empty. The taste has such a strong personality that I did not need any add of sugar. I slowly took my time to review my travel notes and have a look over the presentation map that was given to me, describing the latest architectural redefinitions of The Ritz-Carlton in Wolfsburg. It was the first hotel from the famous luxury chain open in Germany and till then, there is only another Ritz, in Berlin.

The star of the afternoon tea arrived: the three tiered tray. The arrangement was reflecting exactly the fine quality and style of the ingredients and pastry, in a kind of ladder aimed to diversify and amplify the gourmet experiences. The sandwiches were with antipasta, fish, cucumber and lamb, moderately spiced and with an added taste of herbs. At the second level, delicious and fresh, just back from the oven a couple of minutes ago probably, scones with orange and raisins. Accompanied with the special marmalade, they tasted even better. But the best was still to come: the chocolate, lemon and apple petit fours. Fine, special tastes, incredible combination of ingredients and unique results. The perfect balance of sweetness, that somehow matched not only the rest of the food art on the plates, but also the Sencha tea.

After such experiences of gourmet wellness, you can head to your next business meeting confident and optimist. And when travel is your business, you can feel that the whole world is waiting for you outside. It’s again that sensitive matter of taking the best of every moment.

For more insights about The Ritz-Carlton Wolfsburg, have a look at my dedicated Pinterest board: http://www.pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/ritz-carlton-hotel-wolfsburg-germany/

For my newly launched project Afternoon tea, here is the best place to check pictures and posts: http://www.pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/afternoon-tea/

Disclaimer: The Ritz-Carlton Wolfsburg invited me to test their afternoon tea, but the opinions are, as usual, my own. 

The Ritz-Carlton Wolfsburg and the German definition of luxury

Since living in Germany, I keep wandering about how luxury is usually defined and manifested in the daily life. In most cases, I noticed nothing compared to the usual extravaganza and glamour, you can encounter in Paris or LA, for instance. Instead, there is a certain modesty and measure in showing off your wealth to the world. This state of mind is reflected also in the design and general philosophy of big hotels. The more stars a hotel have the more contended is the exhibition of wealth. The results can be very interesting, as it is the case of the newly redesigned The Ritz-Carlton Wolfsburg which welcomes the visitor with a oasis of green, in the middle of the famous thematic park of Autostadt, the communication platform for the Volkswagen Group. The Autostadt theme park, the second largest and famous in Germany, attracted more than 27 million visitors, since its 14 years of function, many of them businessmen and high-end tourists. At the first sight, the decision to open here first one of the two Ritz-Carlton Hotels – the other one is situated in Berlin – in such a ‘secondary’ location might be surprising, but it rather express a sophisticated knowledge of the real state of arts of the luxury business in Germany.

The renovation lasted from August 2012 to November 2013, the redesign being developed by Autostadt in cooperation with Paris-based American architect Elliott Barnes. Those who previously visited the hotel will not find a radical transformation of the location though, as the architect and its team tried to keep in line with the initial plans developed by the French designer Andrée Putman. The original sense of ambiance was kept but translated into a simpler architectural language. ‘Our goal was to bring this philosophy up-to-date and permanently establish the hotel at the high end of the global industry’, explained the new philosophy Autostadt Creative Director Dr. Maria Schneider, according to a press release of the hotel.

One of the most iconic and easy to remember detail of the hotel is the newly designed lobby, with its bamboo-like curtain of illuminated glass tubes that embodies an abstract forest. It is the perfect anchor point that can start the stay and your personal experience at The Ritz-Carlton.

In the center of the room, a further separation of the space is made by the large while marble fireplace that brings not only the overwhelming feeling of tranquillity, but also integrates one of the main branding elements of the hotel: ‘feeling home while far away from home’.

While I am waiting in the lobby, my eyes are moving from a part to another, recording the very small details of the decorations and design concepts: the golden intarsia of a black round table, the reflection of light into the blue walls, the comfy chairs with delicate curves.

The combination of glass and traces of gold is elegant yet creates a certain dialogue and intimacy, as it does not overwhelm the visitor with its opulence.

My best location is near the window, from where I can have a perfect view over the landscape. The industrial constructions such as the historic Kraftwerk – don’t expect beauty from the industry, isn’t it? – are embellished by the small artificial green islands in the middle of the water. Despite being a place for high-end industry and business, the Autostadt is conceived as a predominantly green area, with hills and relaxation area and many garden with small family of ducks slowly making their way through the shadow of big towers stuffed with latest generation of Volkswagen cars. This landscape allowed a good creative playground for the designer who presented his concept according to the latest issue of Autostadt Magazine as follows: ‘I envision the Autostadt as a park with pavilions, which I associate with follies in French baroque gardens. These smaller structures lead to the main building. In this metaphor, The Ritz-Carlton becomes a castle framed by buildings in a beautiful garden’.

Keep in mind the idea of ‘French follies’, ok?

Before having a full tour of The Ritz-Carlton, I stop for the afternoon tea. A perfectly smoked Sencha tea, with a glass of champagne – the non-alcoholic apple-based version is also available – and delicious treats getting more and more sophisticated from a tier to another. It starts with herbs-aromatized small sandwiches, continues with fresh scones with oranges and raisins, with marmalade, and continues with the perfect afternoon tea cakes: apple, oranges and chocolate flavours. The service is perfect, the ambiance and the background music likewise. I can stay there for the rest of my life, but I should keep my schedule for the day, and discover more secrets of the hotel.

My tour starts with a small space aimed to offer even more privacy: a library, with comfy chairs and the round tables typical for the newly designed furniture of The Ritz-Carlton. The predominant line of the furniture is a mix of old and new design classics.

Close to the lobby is situated the design shop, offering branded items, selected wines as well as various wellness products. Vouchers can also be purchased and used.

The products distributed here are aimed to reflect the high standards of luxury of the hotel. Many, as in the case of Neom series, are used in the spa as well.

On the occasion of the new opening, The Ritz-Carlton proudly announced the purchased of more than 600 works of art, including works by Robert Mapplethorpe, Arnold Newman, Elger Esser, Guenter Foerg or Rolf Rose. The works of art previously displayed in the upper-level hallways were relocated now in the guestrooms and suites. Elliot Barnes chose to have the art exposed on narrow shelves installed above the sofas, integrating the piece of art in various casual arrangements that can change as often as possible. As I pass through the lobby hall, I notice the black-and-white works of the local photographer Henry Heidersberger. Another photographer whose work was bought for The Ritz-Carlton collection is the Salzburg-based Agnes Forsthuber.

The new stop is at the deli, a new addition to the hotel, where extraordinary good looking cakes are screaming ‘temptation’ from all their colourful corners. The star of the foodie collection is the famous Carlton cake, developed on the base of 20 recipes from chefs around the world. Created as a tribute to the hotel’s founding, it contains, among others, Grand Marnier, orange confit and an elegant touch of gold.

The rest of the deli area combines secluded private corners with excessive openness, encouraging communication and transparency. With so many sweet temptations, I imagine that it’s almost impossible to refrain from asking your neighbour how his or her cake is tasting. The strongest friendships are starting as simple as possible.

When the weather is perfect, like at the time of my visit, there is the Hafenterrasse, with a view of the swimming pool. Used for the breakfast and usually as an alternative to the restaurant during the day, it also has a winter terrace. But nothing compares to the quiet and tranquil view that you can have during an average sunny day.  

Welcomed by pleasant perfumes, I made my way to the spa. Where I am? Somewhere in a 1001-night tale? The word ‘relaxation’ is translated into added flavours and rays of light. The spa was the first part of The Ritz-Carlton that went through redesign, the work being finished two years ago by Angelika A.Vogt Corporate Styling. It targets the high-end customers of the hotel, in need of a serious rejuvenation and wellness after busy and sometimes long business meetings. The massages and body treatments are completed with organic products by Neom and The Organic Pharmacy. It has bath, sauna and steambath, with by choice, separate areas for men and women. The fitness area, equipped with modern machines, offers a perfect incentive to training: a view of the docks and the canal – the so-called ‘Wolfsburg Riviera’. The swimming pool is kept at a constant temperature of 29C. 

The Ritz-Carlton Hotel has 170 rooms, out of which 23 are suites. Each of the four floors of the hotel follows an unique colour scheme that characterized equally the corridors as well as the rooms and suites. Elliot Barnes followed the concept of an imaginary ascent to the top of a mountain. It starts with the valley (ground-floor), glacier (second-floor) and peak (thirds floor). The next – fourth – level reflects the clouds with light, a counterpoint to the heavy ambiance from the lobby. 

All the tables in the rooms has a predominant oval shape. Replacing the previous massive desks, the message sent by this important piece of furniture is of openness and dialogue, either it is about talking business, coordinating a team or enjoying a quiet family evening. Every room looks like a fully equipped luxury apartment. The sophisticated technology is present too, but without being intrusive: you can manage all your connections and plugs from the retractable panel from the nightstand.

The bathrooms are fully equipped and very elegant, predominantly white with small traces of black. Butlers can be provided by request. In every space of the hotel, lightning is very important, and can be adjusted by the guests, from ‘full’ to ‘soft’. Thus, you are free to make the right choice to determine your ambiance, and not given a space you should inhabit only. 

Once you arrive at the fourth floor, you are entering the new Club Level. It provided personal concierge service, separate check-in and access to the Club Lounge. 

Different menus are offered throughout the day. The Club Lounge is conceived as a living room where you can read, make the right changes to your presentation or read on sofa near the fireplace. Those interested to have private discussions can book conference rooms. 

From the balcony, you can view the Autostadt with completely new eyes, and I suppose that the architect and its team spent a lot of time outdoors testing ideas and creating perspectives. 

Another important concept of the design philosophy is the idea of room-in-room. Spaces can be easily created, either by the massive decorations or the comfy sofas or by the leather-covered headboards and sideboards frame of the beds or sofas. The overall style has a common denomination: genuine luxury, that can suit the cultural diversity of the guests. Although the majority are originally from Germany and German-speaking countries in general, an important number of guests are coming from China, Japan, Brasil, US or the Middle East. 

On the fourth flour are also situated the 220-square metre Black and White Suites, keeping the signature of first designer of The Ritz-Carlton André Putman. The original black and white checkerboard tile pattern is integrated into the new design concept and can be often discovered either at the Spa, or in the lobby or in some of the rooms. 

The couches might look small, but if you think twice you realize that are based on a perfect economy of space. The furniture is aimed to help the guest rest or do his or her job, without stealing from the freedom of movement of the rooms. The delicate edges of the furniture are continuing or communicate with the sources of light and the severity of the walls. 

The Ritz-Carlton Wolfsburg has another precious gem: the multi-awarded restaurant Aqua, ranked on no.28 of the world’s 50 best restaurant list S. Pellegrino and the gourmet journal ‘Restaurant Magazine’. For the fifth successive year, Aqua is representing Germany at this event considered ‘The Oscar’s of the gastronomic world’, as one out of only two German restaurants. The cuisine of the chef Sven Elverfeld, which I was introduced to, is characterized as a sophisticated harmony of aroma, special flavors and texture. Many of his dishes reconnect to a personal memory and tell an individual story about travel or some episode in the career of the chef. As Wolfsburg is only one hour away by train from Berlin, I am tempted to return for a personal experience of the cuisine.

Although the main area of the restaurant was looking empty, I was able to hear the intense preparations for the afternoon opening in the background. Following the redesign plans, Aqua received an additional window that opens the space into a private garden area, where a large shell filled with water creates an ambiance of peace and serenity.

I left the hotel keeping in mind this picturesque ambiance for a long time. This is how you feel when you are truly at home, isn’t it?

For more pictures and details of the Ritz-Carlton Wolfsburg Hotel, have a look at the dedicated Pinterest board: http://www.pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/ritz-carlton-hotel-wolfsburg-germany/

Disclaimer: I was offered a tour of the hotel and invited to test the afternoon tea, but the opinions expressed in this article are, as usual, my own.

The surprising discovery of Halle (Saale)

Before heading to Halle an der Saale, I did ask several times German and traveller friends for the best recommendations for a short stay. In most cases I was politely answered with a diplomatic smile and maybe a question why should I go there of all the other famous places in Germany I haven’t visited yet. Not enough to give up my plans and one more reason to be even more enthusiastic and determined to explore as careful as possible this new destination of my Project ‘100 Places to See in Germany’. I arrived there on the glorious first of May, usually celebrated in the former East Germany with secular religiously disguised in red street gatherings of communist nostalgics, but during my stay, I did not encounter any noticeable proletarian effusion. Instead, less than 30 minutes upon arrival, I had the occasion to admire some ingenious graffiti on Magdeburgstrasse and a discrete stone horse on a small corner of a house at Steintor.

The directions I took from the Central Station were rather the result of individual decisions than of suggested destinations, as I haven’t found any clear signs or indications helping the first time tourists to find their way. I made my way on the streets adorned by the spring flowers, following only the direction of the pleasant smells.

At the end of a beautiful carpet of flowers and a fountain, I arrived at the Operahaus, a classical construction that from the first sight gives you the measure of the serious culture being done inside.

Especially in the old historical center, the classical architectural, following the pattern of the Greek rationality alternates with more joyous game of volumes and decorations of the late baroque.

Traditionally, Halle played the role of a center of culture and education, attracting for centuries students from all over the world. The memory of one of them, Anton Wilhelm Amo is reminded by a statuary group close to the university campus. He was the first student of African origin that visited the local university in the 18th century. During the communism, the university continued to attracted students from this continent. Some continued their life in Germany and nowadays are supported as candidates for the next Sunday European elections by the main German political parties: CDU and SPD.

On a sunny free day of the 1st of May, the university area was empty, except a student on the stairs of one of the building, writing something on his computer.  Wittenberg University is considered one of the most prestigious high education institution in Saxony Anhalt region and one of the oldest in Germany.

A university city attracts young people from all over the world that might be interested in a lively cultural life and cheap coffee and restaurants open relatively early in the morning. Between 10 and 11 o’clock, the central area was getting back to life, with more and more places getting ready to welcome the early guests. As there were not tourists around, everything kept quiet for many hours afterwards.

Quiet doesn’t mean monotonous though in this case. Especially if you are curious enough to look in a different direction in order to see the unexpected.

Following the sound of a guitar, I entered the Neues Theater yard where a morning gathering with cakes, coffee and music was under way. The trompe l’oeil bring historical and daily characters in a picturesque ambiance of clouds and blue sky.

The head stayed in the clouds for a couple of streets more, an impression that made me think that the beautiful doors and entrances might be decorations from mysterious fairy tales.

Soon the highly respectable white presence of Academia Leopoldina, labelled as the oldest continuously learned society in the world, brought me back to reality. Created in 1652, the national academy of Germany had as members prestigious intellectuals and scientists, such as Einstein.

On the other side of the street, the old Moritzburg citadel was inviting me for a historical and artistic exploration. Built at the beginning of the 16th century, it was the residence of the Magdeburg’s archbishops. It is used a museum since 1904 as well as a space for organ concerts. Between 1717 and 1897 it was used for military purposes and a big monogram carved in stone of  King Friedrich the Great is solemnly adorning the entrance of  one of the  buildings.

Viewed both from inside and outside, the entire construction is a sample of old architecture integrated into modernist solutions. I was lucky enough to visit the last days of an exhibition by two of the most famous Armenian painters: Minas and Narek Avetisyan. Minas is the 20th century celebrity of Armenian arts and his vivid, sometimes violent colours are reflecting the tension of ideas and high intensity of intellectual fights. I continued with an interesting collection of Berlin Secessionism and the socially oriented photography of Albert Hennig, a social democrat documenting the daily life in Germany between 1928 and 1933.

With so much food for thought, I followed the road direction Promenade, for a fresh walk in the middle of the nature, together with many other locals enjoying the 1st of May warm with a grill and outdoor chill.

But suddenly, I spot some movement in the middle of the river. The small brown spot is getting bigger and faster and once is closer I can finally figure out that it’s a funny beaver. He is not alone as once my eyes are getting used with the water, I can see more moving spots across the river. There is no May 1st for them and it looks like they have a lot of work to be done. Serious work done under the eyes of a bunch of people on the bridge, clapping their hands or making loud remarks when another beaver was jumping into the river picture.

I left the beavers doing their work heading to the salt museum, dedicated to the local history of the salt. Also called the ‘white gold’, this natural resource contributed to the development of the city in the last three centuries, attracting merchants and traders from all over Germany and Europe.

With many museums closed because of the holiday, but a weather improving from an hour to another, groups of locals and a few tourists preferred to spend their time in the Marktplatz, where it is possible to have an overview of the city from the Red Tower.

The market was very busy with the preparations for a concert, on one side, or some electoral presentations and a fair for children on the other side.

One of the few things I knew about the city before arriving, was that there can be admired an impressive Beatles collection. Situated very close from the center, on Alter Markt, the museum is not only the favourite destination of old hippies, but also included in the educational programs of many local schools. The 17 rooms of the museum – plus a small coffee place and a playground area – has a variety of items associated with the Beatlesmania: CDs, LPs, shirts, fanclub magazines, historical details, billboards, original recordings, books and rarities. It traces the first steps of the Beatles, continuing with their first successes and concerts, personal histories of the members, their later evolutions and the post-Beatles years.

The big hits of Beatles are accompanying the visitor during the tour. The exibition was initially an itinerant collection created in 1964 in Cologne, moving in various other German cities. The current museum, offering a lot of insights not only for the Beatles fans, but also for the development of the star system and show business since the 1970s, is hosted in the current location since 2000.

With the Beatles hits still running in my mind, I continued the solitary discovery of the city and its architecture.  Old Baroque houses are brought back into the modern life, in the middle of homogeneous grey and white simple architecture from the recent decades.

Sternstrasse, bordered by Baroque interesting houses is the best place to find a good place for lunch, different styles of cuisine being offered, from Greek to German or Hungarian.

My culinary choice of the day was the Hungarian restaurant Jambor, a family business on the market for five years, whose interior kept a local ambiance not only with decorations and traditional colours, but also with old postcards and maps of Hungary.

Even though it started to rain, I rather preferred to stay outside, protected by a huge umbrella. I can hardly remember a good non-meaty Hungarian meal, but I tried my luck. First, with an asparagus soup, that was not too salty and with a strong asparagus taste, but anyway, this veggie is not part of the traditional cuisine. The next choice, Piroshka champignons, mixed veggies, with rice side, and delicate traces of paprika was delicious, although a little bit oily for my puritan taste. The service was very fast and welcoming, fully deserving the price.

I am back on the old roads of Halle: kleine Markstrasse, Alte Maerkestrasse, Leipzigerstrasse – apparently the best place for shopping, but everything was closed then.

Suddenly, I am near a big colourful building, with coat of arms and baroque endings, added to an older construction. No, there is not a museum of arts or a theatre, but the headquarters of a very sober local institution distributing justice, the Landsgericht.

Then I go on the other side of the road enjoying the green and quiet view of the Stadtpark.

More street walking follows, on Grosse Sternstrasse and Grosse Nikolaistrasse, and other small discoveries around the old historical center. If one’s curious enough to have a look up to the sky – maybe only for checking the rain – there can be some surprises looking up from the top of the buildings.

Something that no one told me before heading to Halle was that Haendel, whose music I felt, reflects at a certain level some of the intricacies of the baroque architecture I noticed for hours. The museum dedicated to him is situated in the house where he was born and lived between 1666 and 1782.

The rays of light were suddenly disappearing and after a couple of minutes of heavy rain, I concluded that I better hurry up to the train station for a healthy cup of coffee. Not before noticing a massive wall painting, describing episodes of local history.

The strict plans are not necessarily the inspired company of the curious traveler. On my way back to the train with the tram – the one-day 5 Euro ticket helped me to move between different locations – I spotted some unusually arty colourful graffiti and decorated walls. With less then one hour left in town, I decided to go out of the tram to see with the eyes of my camera what is all about. It starts from the underground bridge near the Central Station, with an open area gallery maintained for years by local street artists.

A couple of minutes of walking back, I finally enter one of the most interesting graffiti parks I ever seen, displaying the most colourful and creative graffiti gathered at the same place I ever encountered in Germany. It starts from Landsbergestrasse and continues on the adjacent streets, such as Krondorfer strasse. From SF apparitions to delicate pastels and various comics-like graffiti covering more than half of huge buildings, many of them abandoned, I was treated with the best colourful ending of my visit to Halle.

Hurrying up back to the train station, I was reviewing shortly all the interesting places I visited here. Now, I have many recommendations for my traveling friends back home.

For more pictures from Halle, have a look at the dedicated Pinterest board: http://www.pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/halle-an-der-saale/

Swinging Afternoon Sunday chez Adlon in Berlin

Less than one year after I visited the glamorous Hotel Adlon, I am back. It is the early beginning of May but the weather didn’t change too much, wearing the same unfashionable grey tones. At 14.55, I’m in the iconic lobby of the hotel, looking to find out where the famous Swinging Sundays are taking place. I don’t want to be late, but it’s not possible to get lost and with the prompt advice, I entered the gates right in time. As I was getting closer to the hall, I saw more and more very elegant people heading in the same direction. For me, it’s the only time when I see such a big concentration of very well dressed people in Berlin. All going to the same place with me.

But let’s keep the questions for later. At exactly 15.00, the Metropolitan Orchestra starts the first song: Cielito Lindo. Instantly, the ring is getting crowded. 

I can’t take my eyes off the ring, that mesmerized that I hardly remember that I should eventually go to my reserved place at one of the table placed strategically at the margins. Everyone seems to have years of dancing experience and the following cha cha cha dancing goes perfectly well. And it will go like this from a dancing style to another, either it is a Viennese Waltz, a rumba, a Turkish rhythm, tango, or rock’n’roll.

Finally I made it to my table making my way through elegant waiters carrying huge bottles of the best champagne, where the afternoon tea treats are waiting for me. There is a diverse yet simple selection of small sandwiches, followed by delicious rhubarb cakes at the next level, with the last level of delicacy: macarons and fine chocolate cakes with whipped cream. Not in the mood for delicate champagne, but for a special teapot of fine green tea, brought to me very fast.

But people aren’t here for munching, but for dancing. Again and again, I am trying to get out of my mind the wave of thoughts of regrets for not taking any dancing class earlier in life. Although my gentle neighbours, one arrived especially from Vienna for this special event, the last till October, encourage me to accept the invitation of the professional dancers inviting from time to time the lonely ladies to dance, I prefer to keep observing the ring from outside. I am told that there is a special German school of dance whose principles are mixing high end technicality and mobility. High efficiency, as usual, so maybe it will work for me too, one day?

Even I’m not on the ring, I still can enjoy the afternoon ambiance though. No worries, no problems, catch the glittering eye of the moment! The live music of the band, plus the voices of singer Annika Lund and entertainer Rainer Sommer, are bringing back the spirit of what people use to describe as the ‘crazy 1920s’. The first part of the repertoire is very much in line with the Marlene Dietrich checklist, as well as most of the dresses and hair styles.

During the short 30 minutes breaks, some couples keep dancing getting fit for the new session.  Each new song brings the public closer to our musical times. Till the end of the swinging afternoon, we have Gypsy Kings, Tom Jones’ Sex Bomb or the classical New York, New York. The musicians are changing costumes as well, and the tables stay empty and the cakes untouched. To be honest, I never saw so many different generations united not only by lifestyle, but especially by the same passion for good dancing. 

I don’t know how three hours are gone, but they are gone fast. The elegant entertainer Ingo Raabe, carrying a delicate small dog with glittering leach, announces the end of the party, with an invitation to return October 4, this time in a new location. I have the whole summer to train my clumsy dance steps. I am offered a second chance, it seems. A new challenge on the bucket list right now…

For more images from Adlon, have a look at my dedicated Pinterest board covering previous visits: http://www.pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/adlon-kempinski/

For mode details of the afternoon tea project, check this: http://www.pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/afternoon-tea/

I tried to catch the lively ambiance in two YouTube videos on my channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/Ilanaontheroad

Disclaimer: I was offered the invitation to review the swinging afternoon Sunday tea by Adlon Berlin, but the opinions are, as usual, my own.

Beelitz, beyond the spargel plate

Beelitz is usually associated in the Brandenburg area, with the famous German national spring food – asparagus/spargel – the kind of meal that I’m still doing my best to cook and maybe like it too – one day. As one of my biggest challenges when I travel is to go beyond stereotypes and too-much-beaten paths, two summers ago I visited this city trying to find more than a bundle of spargel. We arrived quite fast by bus, via Potsdam, on a sunny day, enjoying the green scenery and the quiet streets.

The streets kept quiet for the most part of our stay. Either we headed to the center or explored small streets we rarely had any encounter with the local people. In addition to the classical fast foods and local bakeries, a restaurant serving a variety of Balkan cuisine caught our attention.

Once part of the then GDR, with a significant Soviet present nearby for decades, Beelitz was still looking at the time of my first visit for for its post-Cold War identity, with many buildings left from the war times waiting for a new yet unknown destination.

Walking more, we discovered that the traditional spargel gardens are a relatively ‘new’ reality – in historical terms, being created only in the 19th century, by Carl Friedrich Wilhelm Herrmann, a local personality whose memory is reminded with a simple statue placed in a square.

The quiet streets allowed us to observe more of the city. It looks like time stopped here a couple of decades back, with many small traditional shops looking as back in the 1970s or 1980s. In the era of photo sharing and electronic devices, this photo atelier with old photos displayed in the windows makes a big difference.

The same for the small door that makes as stop for a while thinking about the impressive model-size of the inhabitants.

Two years later, I am back in Beelitz the last week, this time in spring, the high spargel season. I took the train and stop at Beelitz-Heilstätten, near the historical military sanatorium. The connection to and from Berlin is every hour and it takes around 30 minutes. Prepared to explore the ruins of the sanatorium, I was pleasantly surprised to encounter the modernist perspective of the glass and wood tower of the local fire brigade. This community service has a long tradition in Beelitz, with a special volunteering service that probably explains the architectural special identity and high-profile.

As in the case of the historical city we visited two summers ago, the streets are quiet again, with a discrete bus commuting every 30 minutes. Private owners are ready to rent their houses to holiday refugees from the city and there is probably a high promise of enjoying a very reality disconnected holiday.

Since moving to Berlin, I explored frequently ruins and abandoned buildings: the former Iraqi embassy or the former CIA listening station on Teufelsberg, among others. Fantastic historical sources once, especially if visited in the fist post-unification years, but nowadays a mass of wreckages. The Beelitz military hospital entered my travel agenda at a time when I lost curiosity for such experiences, but also when the building itself is in an advanced stage of deterioration that makes such an adventure risky. Thus, I limited my adventures to taking pictures from outside and observing the architecture, without jumping inside.

The huge complex, situated in the middle of a green area acquired in decades by the diverse administrations of the hospital, was created starting with the end of the 19th century, when the newly-born health insurance society of the newly united Germany was looking to create a tuberculosis station and a nursing home. In 1902, the Beelitz facility was opened, with a 600-bed capacity, open to both men and women. The architecture reminded me other medical facilities I visited in Berlin recently, such as Charité and Westend hospitals, created around the similar period.

During WWI, most of the facilities were operated by the Red Cross that increased the capacity to more than 1,500 beds. Over 12,586 persons were treated here, among which the maniac who will lead Germany to destruction during WWII. The hospital returned to the usual civilian use in 1920. One of the most sought speciality for a long time will be the lung treatment, that included also long relaxation and walks around the newly acquired green area. As I was walking from a building to another, I was feeling the fresh air maintained by the green trees. But as far as I was getting closer to buildings, the smells and the swarm of flies kept me away.

Many of the 60 buildings part of the complex are vandalized and covered by many layers of paintings and graffiti. During the Cold War, the Soviet Army turned the sanatorium into the largest Soviet military hospital outside the USSR, and it kept this status till 1994, when the Russians left Germany. While walking, was trying as much as possible to do not get lost. The idea of spending more time that I need around, wasn’t on the to-do-list of the day. Regular tours are organized in the area, with in-depth explanations about the architecture and history, but I feel at a certain extent for me it was a one time experience.

In December 1990, another German dictator, Erich Honecker, the GDR president, was treated here for liver cancer. The red-bricked buildings hide many state secrets probably, but from a dead world. In 1997, part of the buildings were reopened for medical use, with the creation of a special facility for Parkinson disease and neurological disorders. As it is listed as one of the largest historical sites in Brandenburg, assigning a new destination or the simple destruction is not possible.

Being far away from the ruins was a good feeling, and I kept walking around the green area, breathing deep the fresh air. The doctors were right, again, there is a special air quality that makes the place so healthy and relaxing.

Taking the advantage of a sunny day, I continue my exploration by foot for another one hour direction Fichtenwalde. Riding by bike is also a good idea. Once arrived in the small village, with colourful flower gardens, I entered again the quiet spirit of Beelitz. Local products, as honey, are on sale, colourful billboards inviting you to go home with some natural healthy souvenirs.

Another consequence of spending so much time in open fresh air, I got hungry. Back in the sanatorium area, I stop at the restaurant of Landhotel Gustav that I spotted before. Besides the big pieces of naive sculptures in the yard, following the basic advertising made by a big black board announced with chalk hand written words that they serve – what else? – various specialities of Beelitz spargel. I followed the curiosity and entered. The place is hosted in a construction built in 1902 for the use of the sanatorium. Many years after the Russians left, the building was turned into an accommodation facility, with a beauty saloon and a restaurant. The interior is crowded without a special style line with various old pieces of furniture, mirrors and even some toys. It also has some tables outside, a good choice for the sunny days.

The service was too slow for my taste, although there were only two more customers in the restaurant. I ordered a classical spargel with season potatoes and sauce Hollandaise, a simple countryside meal. The spargel was smooth and well boiled and the sauce brought some special flavours and taste. A good healthy meal, but not necessarily my style of menu.

Near the sanatorium buildings currently used for medical purposes there are more abandoned buildings, in a better state, but still marked by the traces of decay.

What the future of the former sanatorium buildings will be, is not yet clearly known. The ruins are not only very popular among tourists and travel adventurers, but were also chosen as filming locations for movies such as Operation Valkyrie and Schindler’s List.

I left Beelitz again, this time curious to return sooner than two years to check what the whole area will become. With so many histories and secrets hidden behind old walls, it seems that this place has more stories than spargel recipes to tell.

For more Beelitz insights, have a look at the dedicated Pinterest board: http://www.pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/beelitz/

Relaxing time at the Salz Luft Grotte in Berlin

April is generally a very stressful time for me: a lot of cleaning and specific preparations for the Pesach holidays, relatives and friends visiting, new projects and work opportunities, travels to plan and family to pamper. I feel like an octopus without enough legs to cope with the never ending to-do-list. But, let’s not complain too much: I am living in a time and a place when despite all the emergencies, I discretely take a break and enjoy a full hour of wellness. This time, at the Salt Cave in Berlin, labelled as the largest of this kind in Germany, situated less than 10 minutes away from Olivaer Platz, near the famous Ku’damm.

Once I enter, there is a feeling of peace and quietness in the air that helps me to start relaxing, after a very hectic morning. I am invited to wear a pair of white socks or some plastic shoes – the only dress code requirement, and that for clear hygienic reasons – and I am ready to enter. In a couple of seconds I enter an orange-darkish room, with a very relaxing background music in the tempo of the water running slowly on the salty walls. Everything is made of salt here – except the chaise longues and the blankets. I instantly feel the effects on my inner balance. I breath deep as much as I can, while listening to the technical explanations about the place .

The water on the walls is aimed to bring a certain balance in the salty air. If inhaled in moderation, the salt can be very healthy. Some medical sources also indicates that it helps to counter depressions. Otherwise, people with allergies and asthma should rather talk with their doctor before a visit. There are special hours for families with children. The space is also used for yoga, meditation, pilates or gym, the maximum number of people allowed at the same time being 15. As for me, I only can see myself resting on a chaise longue with a book on my lap, breathing deep and focusing as much as I can to get rid of all the hardship of the last weeks.

Slowly walking on salt proves to be a rewarding experience for my feet. While waiting your tour, you can have a tea prepared outside at a samovar. Reservations in advance, at least 24 hours before, are strongly recommended, especially in order to avoid overcrowding. Regularly, special prices and discounts are offered, and specific weekend for families are part of the usual demands.

The entire space is designed to create the good feeling of wellbeing. The massive colourful walls are made of Himalaya salt, an orange-rose combination that creates a particular ambiance, without soliciting the eyes too much. The regular temperature can reach maximum 20 Celsius, but for those used with higher temperature there are blankets ready.

The small shop at the entrance offers various salt-made products, from usual bath salts or cooking salts, to less unusual combinations, such as bonbons or heart-shaped souvenirs. Most of them are produced in Bad Kissingen, a famous spa-locality far away in the Souther part of Germany.

Unfortunately, my time is over, but long time after living, I still have the deep salty breath deep into my lungs. When I am back home, I know that even though I still have a lot of chores to do, I am going through everything with a more serene outlook. Maybe is because it reminds me of summer holidays near salty seas?

Disclaimer: I was offered a complimentary tour, but the opinions are, as usual, my own.

For more insights about Salz Luft Grotte, have a look at the dedicated Pinterest board: http://www.pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/salz-luft-grotte-olivaerplatz-berlin/

Travel Israel: Where history meets Google

The travel experience to Israel is not only safe and pleasantly surprising, but very affordable too, with more and more direct and less expensive connections from all over Europe and the world. Especially from Germany, many low-costs lines were introduced in the last years, and a smart early booking can give you the chance to fly to Tel Aviv and back for less than 300 Euro.

Regardless of the time of the day you are landing in Tel Aviv, there will always be something open as the city never sleeps. Clubs and bars and restaurants and shops are calling your name. The new brave architecture insinuated in the urban space around old traditional houses, palm trees are bordering walls with creative graffiti. And if you were a bit scared that you will have some communication problems, don’t worry, you are in the country where the main world languages are easily spoken.

In the evening, there are always beach parties. Open air dancing and cocktail tasting is for everyone. Lala Land beach is one of the many places where you should be at the beginning of the night. Elegant hotels but also cozy hostels where one can meet new friends are strategically places near the beach. The prices may differ of the season, with big differences during the Jewish high holidays, especially April – Pesach – and September – Jewish New Year, Rosh Hashana. The sooner you make the reservation, the better. Compared to Europe, the weather is good all round the year – with high temperatures during August – so you don’t risk anything if you start your exploration of Israel in January or February, for instance.

Tel Aviv is the place of arts and creative minds par excellence. The passionate arts scene is featured by the Tel Aviv Museum of Art or Herzliya Museum of Contemporary Art. At the Beit Hatfutsot – the Diaspora Museum – there is a chance to understand more about the history of Jewish communities from all over the world. Before you enter through the gates of any museum, there is the architecture of the city who tells you a story. Jewish architects that escaped Germany before and during the war, brought the Bauhaus spirit in the city and built around 4,000 houses, part of the White City, nowadays included on the list of UNESCO World Heritage.

The contemporary urban culture is a different and equally fascinating layer of Tel Aviv. Answering the curiosities of tourists and locals, graffiti tours are regularly offered in English, covering the most interesting areas of the city. As many of the graffiti messages are connected with the daily life and politics of the Israeli society, a little bit of guidance is more than welcomed.

Transportation in the city is easy: either by bus or by foot. Taxis can help you too, and the very often the prices can be negotiated. Exchange offices or banks are open 6 days of week – Saturday is the official day of rest.

Saturday is the day of rest – Shabbat – and most part of the shops are closed, as well as public transportation. In Tel Aviv, however, one can always find something open or some parties going on – strongly recommended the rooftop parties in the White Cities, many of them arranged as gorgeous gardens, from where you can have a view of the city night life. Resting one day the week is not a bad idea either, and on Saturday evening, one can notice how everything goes back to normality. A must-see is the spontaneous dancing show at Gordon Beach. Many similar street dancing are taking place near the clubs as well.

From the center of Tel Aviv, one can walk for a while reaching the artist quarter of Neve Tzedek. Small streets, bordering colourful and individual houses, hosting small galeries or pop-up stores, but also good restaurants and bakeries, especially French and Hungarian, bringing back home flavours and childhood long-forgotten tastes.

Another tasty and interesting part of Tel Aviv is Jaffa, with its small houses with flower gardens and delicious Oriental restaurants.

The best place to find something special to buy or eat or admire is on Dizengoff Street, where you can find exquisite design shops, the big mall at no. 50 and restaurants for all kind of tastes and budgets. As for me, I also love to walk on Eli’ezer ben Yehuda street, checking the latest French bakeries or the newest frozen yoghurt parlour. And there is something else that no one should miss while in Israel: the big checking list of breakfast, traditionally including boiled eggs, tomato salad, labneh, hummus, olive oil, pita bread, fresh fruits and the unforgettable strong coffee – preferably with cardamom. Curious for more shopping malls: check Azrieli, a couple of bus stations away from ben Yehuda.

On Dizengoff and ben Yehuda I always discover the most interesting and creative art galleries, featuring modern local and European artists.

Tel Aviv is also a friendly city to travel with children. Besides the beach and the many gourmet temptations especially offered for children by many restaurants, there are plenty of parks, playgrounds and the interesting safari that I recently discovered.

Israel is a small country and you can easily move within a couple of hours from a part to another. By car or by taxi, or using the shared cars, but also by train or bus, many of the main cities can be seen in one day. One of the most spectacular areas is around the old fortification of Masada, where the natural landscape is hiding centuries of history of the land.

The easiest way to arrive is via Jerusalem, by bus. The buses have air condition but once you are out, you should be careful as during the high season of August, the heat can be unbearable. From the top, one can see the Dead Sea and the small green oasis, the kibbutz, many of them offering affordable accommodation to the tourists.

Elegant resorts appeared in the last decades, with high-class spa and luxury services. Most are using the Ahava products, based on healthy mud and other natural ingredients.

From the highest altitudes, one can embrace the mysterious landscape. A country that used to be covered by sand and stones is turned into a rich agricultural area, using the best of its natural resources and beauty.

Every year, Masada is hosting a majestic opera festival, with many representations starting early in the morning, the best time to watch the sunrise.

Travelling across the country reveals the diversity and the pace of a country aimed to succeed. In Rishon LeZion, high scrapers were built fast to accommodate the waves of people coming back home. The vertical landscape is ironically punctured by colourful playgrounds. In Ra’anana, the Friendship Park was designed to accommodate visitors with special needs.

One of the cities that took me a lot to come along with is Haifa, the working-city where people are always busy. Here is where the logo of Google can be easily seen on the way to the beach and where Intel established its first center outside USA in 1974. Since then, the American company opened another 4 centers in the country and is planning a $6 billion investment in a chip plant. Rambam hospital, one of the best health centers in the area, is treating patients from all over the world.

As local people are so busy working, the beaches are perfect for those looking for more quietness and privacy. There are not too many beach parties although enough beach bars open till late in the night. Wifi facilities will help you to keep connected with the busy world anyway. Dado Beach, for instance, is considered as one of the best for families with children, while Carmel is more often the meeting place of students and young people in general.

The local zoo was initially launched as an educational school center, but nowadays is has a lot of attractions for children. It is situated close to Carmel Center, one of the two areas – besides the German colony – where to find the best pubs, bars, clubs and restaurants. I sipped some good cocktails once at Barbarossa and definitely loved the Japanika sushi treats, including the design and ambiance.

The city also has a very active, even though not obvious, art life, that you first notice while walking the streets, trying to read the hidden messages of the street art and installations. I discovered here the most important collection of Japanese art at the Tikotin Museum of Japanese Art, close to the beautiful Louis Promenade. For children, and not only, there is an interesting Museum of Science.  For more art, the Ein Hod artists village can offer different surprises, but also the possibility to talk directly with artists about their work.

One of the most famous landmarks of the city are the Baha’i Garden, in a city where various religions co-exist – and there is also a Carmelite Monastery and several churches and mosques. Haifa also has one of the smallest subway network in the world – Istanbul being the other one – with its colourful 6-station of Carmelit funicular railway, re-opened in 1992. Another unique transportation in the city is the cable car which connects the beach promenade with Mt. Carmel.

The naval life left a certain trace on the character of people. Sailors are reliable people, but not very talkative. Either they like you or not, they will tell you openly. A couple of trips after my first visit to the city, I am more used with it. And from a trip to another, I gathered new reasons to come back.

Jerusalem is a different kind of encounter. Walking the thousands of years of cobbled old streets brings the visitor back in time. And even if you are completely ignorant about any history, you might want to know more at the end of your journey.

Before going to the library, try to discover more only by tasting the food, the tempting and delicious pitas or various breads offered in different shapes. A new wave of gourmet restaurants were opened in the last years, one of the best by far being Mantra, Hachatzer or Rooftop. The wines are the natural company of the good foods: in the last years, an impressive number of boutique vineyards were created, many offering regularly wine tasting events.

The streets of the old city are a oasis of quiet, especially if you decide to walk around my favourite time of the day to start a journey: early in the morning. Shortly before 10 o’clock the old streets are back to life, waken up by the noise of the vendors opening their shops or the men rushing to study in many of the synagogues situated in the neighbourhood.

Many rush to the Western Wall, where people from simple Jews to world presidents left a small note asking for a wish.

The area went through various transformations in the last years. The former ruin of the 18th century Hurva synagogue (hurva means ruin in Hebrew) was turned into a new building. There are regular guided tours offered that will lead you to the top of the building from where one can have a panoramic view of Jerusalem and its vicinity.

For many Western visitors, the cats are the unexpected cute encounters. They are everywhere, on the beach, in the yard of the synagogues or at the entry in elegant malls. When they don’t run after mice or beg for a little piece of food, they rest in the most unexpected places.

Mahane Yehuda is where you can smell and taste the Middle East. The spices are in the air, and I rarely need long hours to find out what I am looking for. As usual, I end up with lots of perfumed bags that will put at hard trial my culinary skills and imagination.

I am not more literate when it comes to the fruits either, but the colours are tempting enough to convince me they are worth a little bit of extra tasting.

The weight of history may be enough for not doing anything else besides the Old Quarter. Parks and the biblical Zoo are good destinations for family with children. Otherwise, there are some places that I always want to see again: the interesting Italian synagogue, introducing the special world of Italian Jewry, the Museum of Islamic Art, the Israel Museum with an impressive archaeological collection, including the famous Dead Sea scrolls, and Yad Vashem Museum, the living memorial of the Jews murdered during the Holocaust. Another interesting attraction, relatively newly introduced on the to-do-list in the city is the tram which goes fast from a part to the other of the city, a good opportunity to have a better view of various areas and to observe or get in touch with the local people. As in the case of Tel Aviv, Segway tours are also available for small or bigger group of tourists, with or without a guide included.

Those that don’t have claustrophobic problems and are ready to walk barefoot through water can try to make a tour of the City of David. I did it, despite coping in the first minutes of the tour with a deep emergency to run back to light, and was delighted with the high quality of the English explanations and the overall setting.

The tour – that lasts an average of 3 hours – leads the visitor through underground tunnels, exploring the place of birth of the ancient city of Jerusalem. When you are finally out of the darkness, one learns to better appreciate the light. Back in the real life, there is the busy life from Mamilla Mall with the very talented street artists singing something beautiful. Everywhere, there is something to do and many reasons to return. Even though it’s only for a small piece of cake that you only tasted at home. And home is where your heart is.

For more pictures from Israel, have a look at the dedicated Pinterest board: http://www.pinterest.com/ilanaontheroad/israel/